Arranged through Kolibri Expeditions, who made all the arrangements once we'd landed in Lima.
July 30
Depart Norwich Airport at 06.20. Arrive Amsterdam at 08.15 (+1 hour GMT)
Depart Amsterdam at 10.45 on KL0743
Arrive Lima at 16.25 (-6 hours GMT) Transfer to hotel in Miraflores.
July 31.
Poza Arenillas, Palomino islands, El Olivar park and Pantanos de Villa.
The mudflats of La Punta.
Callao port-Catamaran a 3-4 hour trip to the nearby islets Palomino full of guano producing birds.
August 1. Lima-Cusco.
Fly early to Cusco to make way straight away to Ollantaytambo. The train leaves at 9.15 from Ollantaytambo to the splendid Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel.
August 2. Machu Picchu.
Birding the lower end of the river followed by the bus to the entrance to Machu Picchu. A late buffet lunch in Aguas Calientes, train back to Ollantaytambo where we spent the night.
August 3. Abra Malaga.
a.m. Abra Malaga. In the afternoon travel back to Cusco.
August 4. Manu road. Wayquecha Lodge.
Whole day driving the Manu Road finishing at Wayquecha Lodge and research station where we spent the night.
August 5-6. Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Arrive approx 4.00
2 Nights at the Lodge
August 7. Amazonia Lodge.
Travel by road and river to Amazonia Lodge where we spent 1 night.
August 8-11. Amazonia Lodge to Manu Camping Lodge
8-9 hour canoe trip down the Madre de Dios.
Three days spent birding the camp area, Blanquillo Macaw Lick and the Cocha Camungo oxbow Lake.
Day 12. MWC-Shintuya.
Return upriver. In Shintuya, stay at a small community lodge.
Day 13. Road travel between Shintuya to Cock-of-the Rock Lodge.
Travel back to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.
August 14. Cock of the Rock Lodge- Cusco.
Back to Cusco via Huacarpay Lakes.
Aug 15. Flight to Lima leaves at 11 AM.
Birding afternoon and evening.
Aug 16.
Early morning birding high Puna Grasslands, over 4,800 m.
Depart Lima on KL 0744 at 17.35
August 17. Arrive Amsterdam at 15.00
Depart Amsterdam at 16.55. Arrive Norwich at 16.50
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Friday July 30
Awake at 3.25, no point trying to sleep again as the alarm was due at 3.45. Rai arrived soon after 4.20 and carried our luggage out to the car. Luxury, that's usually my job. We arrived at Norwich airport at 5.10, checked our bags in, forked out the rip off £5 'airport improvement' tax and enjoyed the comfort of the executive lounge.Bliss again, free drinks and a hot pecan pastry.
A mere 35 minute flight to Schipol, flying in over vast greenhouses, canals and bulb fields.
First a bus transfer and then, a longish walk to F9. Again the executive lounge was very comfortable, quiet, with free food, We had a roll each, mine cheese, Pam's, ham.
What luxury travelling business class for the first time, we turned LEFT at the top of the stairs. Two seats where there are usually 3, at least double the leg room and lots of toys to keep us amused. The seats recline, there are leg extensions and footrests, a massage facility and the table and TV comes out of the wide armrests.We were offered - and declined - champagne as the first drink, the offers of food and drinks continued throughout - apart from a couple of hours in the middle of the 12 hour flight. The food was upmarket but odd - we didn't know what anything was until we tasted it to see if it was good. The Indonesian meal served before arrival in Lima in particular. We napped, played Solitaire on the screen, read and did puzzles until the best landing ever at 4.15. We didn't feel the wheels touch the ground.
The last 30 minutes of the flight was over the awesome Andes. Towering peaks, deep valleys, apparently deserted and, a brown tinged grey. High desert but magnificent in its brutal grandeur.
First impressions of Lima, the airport approach anyway, not good. Grey concrete stretching as far as I could see, under a leaden sky.
All 3 items of luggage came off early and Victor in the entry hall was holding a sign with my name on it . We piled into a taxi and after an hour's crazy drive in the horrendous Lima traffic, arrived at the San Antonio Abad Hotel in Miraflores, a Lima suburb.The latter part of the drive was along the Pacific ocean on a new highway, the Green Highway according to Victor. The only green was ipomea sprawled over the still machinery-scarred verges under the louring sky.
The Lima winter has an almost permanent cloud cover and damp mist from the Humboldt Current. Sightings of the occasional gull and Pelican kept us going. At one time, roadside wires were full of Neotropial Cormorants, all that weight, they're hefty birds.
Victor departed saying that we would have a phone call in about an hour. I think that's what he said......
Our room is small but adequate.
No phone call, went down the 40 steps to have a toasted sandwich and a coffee to pass the time, we try to keep to local time despite it being 4 in the morning at home. And it's cold !
Birds seen and ID'd. Black Vultures, Eared Dove, Western Peruvian Dove, Neotropical Cormorant, Band-tailed Gull and Peruvian Pelican (tick, as were the doves).
Saturday July 31
Breakfast booked for 7 as our itinerary said we would be picked up at 7.30, and we were, by Gunnar , who breezed in whilst we were finishing a breakfast of fruit, rolls, cheese, ham, jam and coffee.The woman sat in the hall who had smiled and waved at me, turned out to be Blanca, our leader for much of the day. A very endearing and pleasant woman who drove us mad at first by her very un-english over friendliness and insistence on talking local history and culture to us when Gunnar was talking birds. She calmed down a lot..... She runs a local Art Gallery and does tour guiding as well. Not a good enough birder for us, she only started 6 years ago. Gunnar left us after a very profitable garage - in- a -building -site stop for eight Peruvian Thick-knees . Appalling light, the garou giving a drizzle effect, I still attempted a photo (not worth publishing but here's someone else's). We had an identical number in similar habitat.
We saw over 50 species to-day, of which 22 were new.
Eared DoveA short detour to a small jetty where we had our first Inca Tern perched distantly on a very unsalubrious metal girder.
Gunnar then left to keep his wife happy by attending his younger daughter's 1st birthday party. Very unprofessional......
The catamaran, Spondyllus, left the quay at 10.35, returning at 1.45. It took us out to the Cavinzas Islands where guano (bird poo), has been collected for centuries. It was rather rough out there.....
Peruvian Booby
White-chinned Petrel
Peruvian Sea-lions
Red-legged Cormorants
Humboldt Penguins - rare
Late lunch at Manolo's, where I ate what Gunnar had described as Mango Ceviche. Ceviche is a marinated prawn dish eaten raw like sushi. I decided to try the veggie option, no mango but a pile of fresh peach. It was very nice, spicy, not filling at all. Blanca gave us a local cuisine lesson when we tasted a couple of dishes on her plate and enjoyed the dish of toasted corn brought to the table of this roadside shack/ restaurant.
A short visit to a small park near Gunnar's home, he joined us there, to find Red-masked Parrot, Shiny Cowbird, Blue-grey Tanager, Bananaquit and Scrub Blackbird. He then left us, calling us back to say 'small bag only' for the Machu Picchu train,'you can buy one at the Indian Market'. Everything else would be left in Cusco.
There followed a hair-raising drive in the horrendous traffic, stopping at a small pier for Seaside Cinclodes and on to a reserve area where the gates were shut for the night as he turned us away. Roadside stops at a pool area in tall fleshy reeds, added Black-crowned Night-Heron (juv), Andean Coot, White-cheeked Pintail, Ruddy Duck (used to be Andean Duck) and Common Moorhen.
Andean Coot
Great Grebe I glimpsed a Puna Ibis flying low over the reeds. Blanca found us a female Red fronted Meadowlark in the gathering gloom, before making the welcome return journey to our hotel.
We almost immediately went back downstairs for a toasted sandwich and a cup of coffee after doing the list. 51 for the day but specialist birds.The bad news is that we have to be ready to leave for the airport at 4 a.m. to-morrow. We're both rather tired after a long couple of days. It's now 9.30 and I intend going to sleep after a short read of one of the Lee Childs' Jack Reacher books Sara bought me for my birthday.
August 1
The alarm at 3.25 prompted a sluggish, yet efficient, final packing and departure. A phone call brought the receptionist to carry our bags down all those stairs. Gunnar arrived at 4 and we whizzed off to the airport to catch the 6.20 plane to Cuzco - where the sun was shining. Stupendous Andes views as we flew south west, many snow-capped crags to-day.
Walking from the plane to arrivals was gaspingly slow. The thin air hit us - but we soon recovered. We haven't been at 3, 400 metres since Argentina, many - and younger - years ago.
A beaming Antonio, our bird guide for the trip, was waiting to take us to the sturdy 4x4 minibus driven by mechanic/cook/general factotum, Julio. There followed a 2 hour filmchase-like drive to Ollantaytambo. Steep at times, heavy traffic through which we slalomed, often three abreast on blind corners. All tiny settlements have vicious traffic calming humps too. The road surface varied from unpaved to tarmac, often well holed. Some lovely well farmed countryside with its adobe houses, a contrast to the often squalid looking villages. Seeing our first 'proper' Indian women too, bowler hatted, long black pigtails, some with infants slung on their backs, swaddled in colourful cloths. We were obviously in a hurry !! Understood why when we got to the dead end village of Ollantaytambo with its jarringly-large cobbled streets. The train pulled in as we got out.
Another 2 hour journey, the train labouring its way along a narrow river valley, rushing torrent one side, snow capped mountains the other.
View from train window
Just us three birders in the carriage and all the good seats overlooking the river occupied by others. We still managed to see Torrent Duck by standing up, mine a female.
Male Torrent Duck
A Hotel man met us off the train, carrying our minimal luggage, the main bags left in our minibus, the train only allows small bags. We packed our nighties and change of clothing into Pam's carry-on bag.
An awful lot of rough steps later, we climbed the water edged steps to reception. The Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel is a series of scattered rooms up the mountainside amongst a lot of trees and greenery. Lovely. Guess where our super room is.....yes, near the top.
Our first birds were Slate-throated Whitestart (this became one of Pam's bogey birds for the trip) and Southern Yellow Grosbeak. We spent a little time walking the grounds with its hummingbird feeders and bananas nailed to trees as bird attractions, before walking down to the lower train track. This track services locals and a newly discovered ruin near Machu Picchu which is being cleared. We then went for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river. We'd hardly filled our plates at the buffet when Antonio found a White-capped Dipper on a boulder below. What a delightful bird, all the usual habits with a snowy white head and breast and black eye stripe.
Antonio now lives in Toronto where his wife is a biology lecturer at the University, currently researching Ants. Lucky man recently worked with David Attenborough on his latest series 'Life Underground', as did his wife. He was full of praise for David as a man and as a truly dedicated, hard-working performer.
After a leisurely lunch, we declined a further walk down the valley in favour of another look at the hotel feeders. I sat on some steps happily photographing half a dozen species of Hummer whilst Antonio booked himself a room for the night in a cheaper establishment.
Chestnut-breasted Coronet
Sparkling Violet-ear and
We threw in the towel at 3.15, retiring to write an Email, sort 71 Emails received + the 13 Spam. However many will there be when I get home? Internet access is free here. After a shower, I wrote up to-day's Blog and downloaded to-day's pics. Pam started addressing the postcards, bought on the way back from lunch. Lovely to stop. The minute midges with their hot pinprick bites got to us too.
A quick run through to-days's birds with Antonio, the long names are hard to remember, before arrangements for the morning, our free Pisco Sour and a very good evening meal. This is a very classy, helpful and pleasant Hotel. Hot water bottles in our beds to-night, I had both. Breakfast at 5.30 to-morrow before birding along the river and the bus to Machu Picchu.
Monday August 2
The alarm was set for 4.55 but it was unnecessary. Neither of us had a good night, I was awake at 1.30. It was two very sombre and tired women who set off down all the steps to breakfast through extremely wet pathside plants. It had stopped raining but, everything still dripped on us. It looked an excellent breakfast but neither of us wanted food. Pam managed a scrambled egg and I a few spoons of cereal so that we could take our pills. Antonio arrived at 6 and we set off across the bridge where I found a tiny endemic hummingbird, the Green and White.
Down to the riverbank, across the lower railway line reserved for locals and workers. The shops line the track, like an old western frontier town.
They've started paving the paths but most are still rough and stony. A dismal morning light-wise, soon brightened by an always distant White-capped Dipper, which I photographed. The real highlight was a pair of delightful Torrent Ducks, he keeping guard whilst she trawled the river for breakfast. A Black Phoebe was ever present as were Blue and White Swallows.The Mercedes minibuses which take visitors up to Machu Picchu were parked at the bottom of the village. At least 22 identical vehicles with a very good reproduction of the Inca citadel on the side.
Antonio had managed to charm the boss into telling a driver to pick us up en route. Half an hour of climbing corkscrew bends along an un-made road to drop off point. However did the Incas choose and build the place and then Hiram Bingham discover it, in pre technology times.
How do I begin to describe the experience? Awesome in the true meaning of the word. Some more steps, round a corner, climb even more steps about a third of the way up the mountainside and, turn off to look through a small opening beside a thatched hut. This is what I saw.
Much better than the myriad of published photographs as they give no real idea of the sheer scale of the site. I just stood and looked. A lot of cloud to start with, lending a brooding atmosphere to the scene.
This gradually changed to blue sky, enabling a better appreciation of the magnificent setting as the cloud lifted from the surrounding peaks. Dragging ourselves away, we made a serious attempt to find an Inca Wren and were successful. Earlier, a Variable Hawk sailed over whilst a Mountain Caracara appeared on top of the wall, looking for handouts which were not forthcoming.
Hot and 'stepped-out' we returned on the bus for a welcome drink at Toto's, the riverside restaurant where we lunched yesterday and, eventually did again to-day.
Our lunch place
Some necessary shopping, and then some unnecessary, in an Indian Market which led to the train station. The Hotel had collected our bags from our room and delivered them to the station for us. Great service.
The train back to Ollantaytambo was late as an ill woman and her family had taken other's seats. We had riverside seats this time and found seven Torrent Ducks for ourselves.
Julio (driver) was waiting in the car park to take us to the nearby Hotel where we soon settled in to our ground floor rooms. We got Antonio to help us with to-day's list, decided we didn't want to go out for dinner and caught up with downloading photos, charging camera batteries etc. whilst the electricity was on.
Wednesday August 3
My 72nd birthday and what a memorable one. It didn't start too well......we got up at 4.55 to find we were without a light. Packing, dressing etc, by the light of a mini torch was not easy. Luckily it came on 10 minutes before breakfast. Enough time to open my cards which friends had been kind and thoughtful enough to get to Pam before we left. A very tousle-haired young man pointed us towards some hard rolls and said no fruit, tortillas or juice before 6 !! Antonio was not happy, Julio even more unhappy. He did eventually cook us a pancake each.
The morning's drive up to Abra Malaga defies superlatives. Hairpin bends climbing ever higher up the mountainside, glaciers showing from time to time, Ollantaytambo gradually disappearing below
.
The birding was great. First bird a Giant Hummingbird and then Thick-billed Saltator. Despite the poor light we then saw a succession of good birds including a couple of endemic hummingbirds. Rounding one bend, Pam called two raptors over the far ridge. Two adult Condors circling closely together. Only the second time Antonio has seen them here. Lucky or what.
Fuzzy Condor - miles away.
The slow climb was punctuated by birding stops and walks along the road until we reached the top, which is a mecca for birders to see the rare and localised Royal Cinclodes - marked by its own big sign. It involves a steep walk up the mountainside so that was out of the question.
One more roadside walk, Julio picked us up, and the return journey to Ollantaytambo. A small village teeming with people as it's the gateway to Machupicchu. Fields here are full of corn, they grow at least 25 different varieties. The ones we've eaten so far have extremely large,up to 3cms long, almost white, grains. The sort they dry roast and toss in a little salt, used as a drinks accompaniment, is very tasty.
Gunnar phoned to wish me Happy Birthday. So did Bridget and then, Sara, as we drove through Ollantaytambo. I was delighted with both, bothering to do so. I'd already had a text from Bridge too which came through as I turned the phone on when I got up. Sara phoned at 6 a.m. on August 4th, their time, on the way to the airport - a Sydney day. We were cut off - reception is random - so she also sent a text. People are great.
The journey back to Cusco was a little less frantic as we hadn't a train to catch, we could appreciate the countryside more. As Pam said, it looks like Peru now, not an alien land . I knew what she meant.
We arrived at our comfortable hotel in Cusco at 4.30 with enough time to download photos and gather ourselves before dinner at 6.
Dinner was at restaurant, Sara, across the road which Antonio had chosen so that we didn't have to walk far, very thoughtful. He didn't know it was my daughter's name. We had a very nice meal in a lovely place, deciding not to have dessert as we were full. Antonio ate pork and cuyo (guinea pig) - it's a traditional restaurant.
Starting to-day's list at the end of the meal, four waitresses arrived bearing a cake + candle and sang Happy Birthday. Antonio's work again. Lovely. The cake was chocolate mousse in a mountain of soft cream which the three of us dug into with our spoons. Julio had already gone - long drive to-morrow. Change of plan too, no visit to Huacarpay Lakes. There's a general strike in Cusco which could involve road closure so that we couldn't get through on the return journey to our next lodge. We readily agreed to this.
I've had a great day and thoroughly enjoyed it. We saw so many brilliant birds, most of them new to us, too many to list here in a general Blog. I shall have to do a trip report when I get home.
Andean LapwingAnother 5.30 breakfast to-morrow, time for bed.
August 4
After a rotten night, I was awake for 3 hours, we dragged ourelves to breakfast where Pam ate next to nothing and I had fruit and a roll. Jetlag and altitude do not make for good sleep patterns.
Promptly at 6, we climbed out of a deserted Cusco, through the lovely, elegant square whose colonnades hide such places as McDonalds. No Golden Arches though, all in keeping. Past the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman and a pool which had several Puna Ibis feeding along its shore.
Our first stop was short of a small bridge where we soon saw a lovely male Andean Hillstar, an endemic, and a Peruvian Sierra-Finch. A White-winged Cinclodes led us a merry dance before gaining good views.
Ochre-naped Ground-tyrant
A morning snack of banana and Oreos before setting off again. The rest of the day is a blur made up of snaking up one mountainside and down the other, traversing a valley and the same again. Always a steep drop on one side, the road clinging to a mountain side on the other. All of it on a very rough dirt roads. The infamous Manu Road.
The valleys were prosperous compared with the adobe mud homes in the numerous small villages we passed through. Herds of sheep, cows and a few horses and the occasional pigs, attended by someone in full Indian clothes, both along the roads and on seemingly impossibly steep mountainside. Piles of mud bricks drying in the sun with heaps of soil waiting - we never did see anyone using a mould. One village obviously had a skilled workman available, the homes were both plastered and had very attractive and skilful relief figures of animals, or birds, or people on the walls. I must try and take some photos on the way back....
We lunched in a small pull-off wooded gully beside a road bridge and a small stream. Whilst Julio prepared lunch, we sat and birded, seeing very little apart from an orange butterfly with black tiger-striped wings.
The baby in the centre photo is being fed Fanta, the smiling vendor is producing soup on a stove in a cardboard box. These women are clothed in western style apart from the traditional hats and shawls, the latter used for carrying everything including children. The traditionalists wear multi layers of skirt and thick woollen tights.
The afternoon drive to Wayqecha where we spend the night, became a bit of a nightmare. Still the same road conditions allied with cloud forest thick fog, heavy dampness on the windscreen and roads made even worse by the regular wet conditions. Oncoming traffic on the mainly single track road suddenly appeared in the screen. Julio was totally unperturbed by it all, Pam and I decided to try and sleep - close our eyes anyway. A short stop brought a glimpse of Great Thrush - it looks like a giant Blackbird with all the yellow bits much more richly coloured. Five minutes later we stopped at a hut and the horn was hooted. Two jovial men pushing wheelbarrows appeared out of the mist. Luggage loaded into the barrows, we followed down a steepish track to our 2 bedroomed cabin for the night, shared with Julio and Antonio.
It's a Cloudforest Research Station with some accommodation for non-workers.
Wayquecha bedroom
We spent the next couple of hours birding from the balcony - only about 20 meters visibility, occasionally improving - and, trying to get warm. It was - still is - very cold indeed. Ant got us some coffee from the dining area which helped a bit. Our room is cold and damp feeling. I tried to read, write this Blog etc but the electricity didn't come on until 5.45 and it goes off again at 9. It's a perfectly adequate place and the cabins are nice. The cold and damp colours everything. Let's hope it's clearer in the morning when we leave - very early of course - for Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Dinner is at 7, I hope the dining room is heated !
It wasn't.
Wayquecha battery charging facility.
Pam slept fully clothed, I had my nose under my bed-clothes too - but slept better than last night. Strange.
Thursday August 5
I chose not to breakfast - 72 steps down and then back up. Pam brought me a roll. A lovely clear morning. We birded the balcony for a while, seeing our first Crimson-backed Woodpecker here. Superb bird.
We then drove back up the road, sat and birded for a while before walking a couple of hundred yards down the road and were then driven to use the loo and collect our luggage and packed lunch from the lodge.
The rest of the day was spent driving the indescribably bad roads, to-day's even worse due to landslides and regular torrents gushing down the mountainside and across the track.Stopping every time we saw a flock, often walking a couple of hundred yards before Julio picked us up. A large flock of Scale-headed Parrots flew over as did a single Solitary Eagle and an adult and young Black-and-chestnut Eagle.
Scale-headed Parrots
After a lunch of chicken, rice and vegetables, sitting roadside, it was more of the same in increasing cloud as we descended. The afternoon's highlight was our first male Cock of the Rock, another ambition achieved. He did not disappoint, the orange is fluorescent. Then a beautiful Trogon and a Motmot just before arriving at Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Masked Trogon
The latter's lek has been washed away by a landslide but we're going for a look in the morning anyway.
Shortly before reaching the lodge, we crossed the river and stopped at a disused building. Antonio directed us to a nest underneah the eaves, asking us what bird it was sitting there. Looks like a duck, I said. Much hilarity when he told us it was a Lyre-tailed Nightjar female sitting on eggs.
Our cabin at Cock of the Rock Lodge is great. Large and comfortable with a view of the grounds.. We're here for two nights so that's comforting. The big drawback is the lack of electricity, candles ready in our room. I am so dependent on good light. Should have brought many more batteries for our torches. Another Gunnar lack of information item.
Cock of the Rock Lodge bedroom
Walking down to the dining room for a hot cuppa (it's very cold again), we were greeted by views of a garden area full of birds. The next hour was spent coming to terms with them, all the Hummers are new.
Candle-lit rooms, battery charging possible in the dining room from 6-8 every day. That's where we are now. It looks like spaghetti junction, the sockets are loose and Pam had to hold the extension lead for quite a while before a french woman put her battery chargers on top to hold the connection. We have American, French and UK people here to-night. Very noisy !
Dinner was good. Pumpkin Soup, pork chop, potato cake and tomatoes in a tasty sauce followed by poached pears in a tasty sauce of some sort.
Friday August 6
We couldn't get going this morning, although not very warm, bed was warmer than the cabin and our clothes. 6.40 at the dining room was 40 minutes later than Antonio expected us - but we hadn't missed anything. Two fried eggs for breakfast set us up well, a change from bread and jam. The food is very good here and the place is well run by manager Jose ( a real deadpan comic who gets on well with Ant) and his staff. We then watched the birds in the garden below with its numerous hummingbird feeders and fruit platform until 11 a.m.
Yellow-bellied Euphonia
Blue-necked Tanager
I took numerous photographs of the Brown-fronted Capuchin Monkeys who arrived to be fed bananas by Jose. A cage released old Capuchin hung around - still does - and the family group of 16 caught on to a good thing.
The Old Boy
He throws the fruit to them, many are caught. Fun to watch but they become a nuisance when they frighten the birds away.
Tufted Capuchin Monkey
A couple of Agoutis kept appearing, small grey squirrels scampered about, everything disappearing when the Tyras (weasel-like mammal) chased through.
Sanborn's Squirrel
Our smiley waiter boy called us to view a Cock of the Rock opposite our cabin, not photographable unfortunately.
At 11 we drove up the horrific road as far as a parador (viewpoint), completely obscured by cloud yesterday but to-day, was blue and sunny all day. As I said to Pam later, 'what's the difference between this road and a stream-bed?' . 'Nothing ',was the response.
After a lunch of avocado mush (dressing and veg mixed in to a round heap), chicken stir fry and a prettied up banana - all very good - we set off down the road, stopping to bird there and back. What is so astonishing is the range and quantity of vehicles that use the road. From lorries and buses to saloon cars. Breakdowns and falling off the road are both said to be frequent occurrences, we were lucky in experiencing neither.
We pick up new birds every time we go out. If the place to get out is hazardous - as it often is - Antonio uses my camera out of his window or outside. The only windows which open are the front ones, very frustrating at times but, the seats are extremely comfortable, like armchairs. Our windows are covered in a DIY tinted film too, making looking out of mine in particular look like a bad eye test. The Beast is a gas/diesel 4 litre Dodge.
Antonio photo'd three different sorts of Oropendola in an orange-flowered tree but doesn't seem to have extended the lens.........
Crested Oropendola
Straight down to the dining room as two other groups have arrived and I wanted to book the electric sockets, generator on from 6-8 only. We eat by candlelight.
I used to like Americans..........., to-night's intrusive and stupid man put me right off.
I'd finished setting up the chargers when Julio fetched us to see an Andean Potoo perched and flying off the guides' bedroom side of the dining room. Unfortunately, the other groups caught on and beat us to it. We did have goodish views of it flying and landing on a dead tree, it's not usually found at this low an altitude. Must be the cold! We went back later and saw it through Ant's scope whilst Julio spotlit.
During a supper of Broccoli Soup, Spag Bol and Chocolate Pudding, smiley waiter Elvis (yes, really) called us to see a Kinkajou hanging upside down from a hummingbird feeder. Great. Because Antonio is so affable and helpful, locals seem to go out of their way to help us.
Not as cold to-night. The chargers were green apart from Pam's camcorder, so I packed them all away and am writing this in the cabin, on battery, by candle-light. We leave here at 10ish in the morning, heading for Amazona Lodge for the night.
Saturday August 7
On time this morning, at the entry gate by 6. We didn't see many birds but had a very interesting time watching a large lorry draw up and decamp seven Bolivian students and their provisions, tents etc. They will be joined by other nationalities, spending 3 months looking for birds nests. It was the at least eighteen dozen eggs which intrigued Pam the most.
Ham omelette for breakfast this morning, with short sorties to see and to photograph thrushes.
Slaty Thrush (aberrent white feathers)
We've enjoyed this place - apart from the lack of electric light.
Birding our way down to the Madre de Dios river was most enjoyable - especially the Umbrella Bird which Pam spied through the front screen. Everyone else was looking down at the river, thank goodness she's got vertigo. Another wish list bird ticked off - they're not seen every trip.
As soon as we hit the lowlands, birds increased in number and variety, we saw over 90 species to-day, many of them familiar such as Smooth-billed Ani and all the pesky myiarchus flycatchers which are difficult to identify.
Apart from a longish stop at a frontier type hamlet so that Ant could contact Canada and we could stock up on batteries and antihistamine tablets (me - mosquito bites), it was straight to the boats used for getting to Amazona Lodge. A few shacks, parked cars, toddlers and foraging chickens. Through a gap and across big pebbles and mud, about a dozen large canoes with canopies.
With much good-natured shouting, manoeuvering of boats and trepidation (us) we easily ducked on board one of the smaller canoes to the first - of many - Antonio warnings, 'Mind your heads'.
Our canoe
Julio and The Beast were left on shore until our return.
The boat had to be poled out to midstream, the water was very shallow, the appearance of the river most unexpected. Wide stony shores with a channel in the centre containing many rapids. Engine started, we gunned into the centre and moved rapidly downstream. The rapids had to be taken even faster it seems !
Fifteen minutes later, a shorts clad youth could be seen on the far bank in a gap in the forest. Boat pulled in, gangplank hoisted and we stepped ashore dry footed. The luggage was loaded into a wheelbarrow and rapidly disappeared down a narrow path. We followed rather more slowly, seeing some good birds en route.
The sight of what passes for a lawn in the distance was welcome in the humid heat of the lowlands. Lovely grounds with many beautiful trees and bushes, as befits an old tea plantation.
The owner greeted us on the extensive balcony and poured out the iced lemonade. Everywhere was teeming with birds; so many different hummingbirds at the feeders, Oropendolas feeding on the fruit trees, Spotted Chachalacas trying to get their share. We're the only people here to-night and got Room 1 which is close to the communal shower block - down some open concrete steps and along a walkway. Pam and I immediately went for a much wanted shower and hairwash plus undies laundry. I think Antonio was planning a walk...........
The next couple of hours were spent birding the garden - from the balcony - and photographing as many as possible.
Most enjoyable.
Speckled Chachalaca
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
We almost immediately went back downstairs for a toasted sandwich and a cup of coffee after doing the list. 51 for the day but specialist birds.The bad news is that we have to be ready to leave for the airport at 4 a.m. to-morrow. We're both rather tired after a long couple of days. It's now 9.30 and I intend going to sleep after a short read of one of the Lee Childs' Jack Reacher books Sara bought me for my birthday.
August 1
The alarm at 3.25 prompted a sluggish, yet efficient, final packing and departure. A phone call brought the receptionist to carry our bags down all those stairs. Gunnar arrived at 4 and we whizzed off to the airport to catch the 6.20 plane to Cuzco - where the sun was shining. Stupendous Andes views as we flew south west, many snow-capped crags to-day.
Walking from the plane to arrivals was gaspingly slow. The thin air hit us - but we soon recovered. We haven't been at 3, 400 metres since Argentina, many - and younger - years ago.
A beaming Antonio, our bird guide for the trip, was waiting to take us to the sturdy 4x4 minibus driven by mechanic/cook/general factotum, Julio. There followed a 2 hour filmchase-like drive to Ollantaytambo. Steep at times, heavy traffic through which we slalomed, often three abreast on blind corners. All tiny settlements have vicious traffic calming humps too. The road surface varied from unpaved to tarmac, often well holed. Some lovely well farmed countryside with its adobe houses, a contrast to the often squalid looking villages. Seeing our first 'proper' Indian women too, bowler hatted, long black pigtails, some with infants slung on their backs, swaddled in colourful cloths. We were obviously in a hurry !! Understood why when we got to the dead end village of Ollantaytambo with its jarringly-large cobbled streets. The train pulled in as we got out.
Another 2 hour journey, the train labouring its way along a narrow river valley, rushing torrent one side, snow capped mountains the other.
Just us three birders in the carriage and all the good seats overlooking the river occupied by others. We still managed to see Torrent Duck by standing up, mine a female.
Male Torrent DuckAn awful lot of rough steps later, we climbed the water edged steps to reception. The Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel is a series of scattered rooms up the mountainside amongst a lot of trees and greenery. Lovely. Guess where our super room is.....yes, near the top.
Our first birds were Slate-throated Whitestart (this became one of Pam's bogey birds for the trip) and Southern Yellow Grosbeak. We spent a little time walking the grounds with its hummingbird feeders and bananas nailed to trees as bird attractions, before walking down to the lower train track. This track services locals and a newly discovered ruin near Machu Picchu which is being cleared. We then went for lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river. We'd hardly filled our plates at the buffet when Antonio found a White-capped Dipper on a boulder below. What a delightful bird, all the usual habits with a snowy white head and breast and black eye stripe.
After a leisurely lunch, we declined a further walk down the valley in favour of another look at the hotel feeders. I sat on some steps happily photographing half a dozen species of Hummer whilst Antonio booked himself a room for the night in a cheaper establishment.
Chestnut-breasted Coronet
Sparkling Violet-ear and Long-tailed Sylph
A quick run through to-days's birds with Antonio, the long names are hard to remember, before arrangements for the morning, our free Pisco Sour and a very good evening meal. This is a very classy, helpful and pleasant Hotel. Hot water bottles in our beds to-night, I had both. Breakfast at 5.30 to-morrow before birding along the river and the bus to Machu Picchu.
Monday August 2
The alarm was set for 4.55 but it was unnecessary. Neither of us had a good night, I was awake at 1.30. It was two very sombre and tired women who set off down all the steps to breakfast through extremely wet pathside plants. It had stopped raining but, everything still dripped on us. It looked an excellent breakfast but neither of us wanted food. Pam managed a scrambled egg and I a few spoons of cereal so that we could take our pills. Antonio arrived at 6 and we set off across the bridge where I found a tiny endemic hummingbird, the Green and White.
The Bridge to the Hotel
Down to the riverbank, across the lower railway line reserved for locals and workers. The shops line the track, like an old western frontier town.
The View from the Bridge
Downtown
They've started paving the paths but most are still rough and stony. A dismal morning light-wise, soon brightened by an always distant White-capped Dipper, which I photographed. The real highlight was a pair of delightful Torrent Ducks, he keeping guard whilst she trawled the river for breakfast. A Black Phoebe was ever present as were Blue and White Swallows.
How do I begin to describe the experience? Awesome in the true meaning of the word. Some more steps, round a corner, climb even more steps about a third of the way up the mountainside and, turn off to look through a small opening beside a thatched hut. This is what I saw.
Pam overcoming vertigo to look at the steps up which we'd climbed.
Mountain Caracara
Hot and 'stepped-out' we returned on the bus for a welcome drink at Toto's, the riverside restaurant where we lunched yesterday and, eventually did again to-day.
Our lunch placeThe train back to Ollantaytambo was late as an ill woman and her family had taken other's seats. We had riverside seats this time and found seven Torrent Ducks for ourselves.
Julio (driver) was waiting in the car park to take us to the nearby Hotel where we soon settled in to our ground floor rooms. We got Antonio to help us with to-day's list, decided we didn't want to go out for dinner and caught up with downloading photos, charging camera batteries etc. whilst the electricity was on.
Wednesday August 3
My 72nd birthday and what a memorable one. It didn't start too well......we got up at 4.55 to find we were without a light. Packing, dressing etc, by the light of a mini torch was not easy. Luckily it came on 10 minutes before breakfast. Enough time to open my cards which friends had been kind and thoughtful enough to get to Pam before we left. A very tousle-haired young man pointed us towards some hard rolls and said no fruit, tortillas or juice before 6 !! Antonio was not happy, Julio even more unhappy. He did eventually cook us a pancake each.
The morning's drive up to Abra Malaga defies superlatives. Hairpin bends climbing ever higher up the mountainside, glaciers showing from time to time, Ollantaytambo gradually disappearing below
.
The birding was great. First bird a Giant Hummingbird and then Thick-billed Saltator. Despite the poor light we then saw a succession of good birds including a couple of endemic hummingbirds. Rounding one bend, Pam called two raptors over the far ridge. Two adult Condors circling closely together. Only the second time Antonio has seen them here. Lucky or what.
The slow climb was punctuated by birding stops and walks along the road until we reached the top, which is a mecca for birders to see the rare and localised Royal Cinclodes - marked by its own big sign. It involves a steep walk up the mountainside so that was out of the question.
Descending into cloud forest, that is what it became. The cloud was so thick that it was difficult to see the road ahead. We tried - and succeeded - in finding some good birds, Antonio is very good, before turning back to drive to a clearer spot.
Asked if we were hungry - answer affirmative - we decided to eat here rather than return to the clouds of biting midges we'd encountered earlier. Tall plastic stools and a tableclothed table erected, we waited for the rolls and fruit. Julio was busy behind the vehicle - cooking! He produced a delicious meal of stir-fried chicken, noodles, tomatoes, peppers, onion and ginger. His wife doesn't know he can cook.
One more roadside walk, Julio picked us up, and the return journey to Ollantaytambo. A small village teeming with people as it's the gateway to Machupicchu. Fields here are full of corn, they grow at least 25 different varieties. The ones we've eaten so far have extremely large,up to 3cms long, almost white, grains. The sort they dry roast and toss in a little salt, used as a drinks accompaniment, is very tasty.
Gunnar phoned to wish me Happy Birthday. So did Bridget and then, Sara, as we drove through Ollantaytambo. I was delighted with both, bothering to do so. I'd already had a text from Bridge too which came through as I turned the phone on when I got up. Sara phoned at 6 a.m. on August 4th, their time, on the way to the airport - a Sydney day. We were cut off - reception is random - so she also sent a text. People are great.
The journey back to Cusco was a little less frantic as we hadn't a train to catch, we could appreciate the countryside more. As Pam said, it looks like Peru now, not an alien land . I knew what she meant.
We arrived at our comfortable hotel in Cusco at 4.30 with enough time to download photos and gather ourselves before dinner at 6.
Dinner was at restaurant, Sara, across the road which Antonio had chosen so that we didn't have to walk far, very thoughtful. He didn't know it was my daughter's name. We had a very nice meal in a lovely place, deciding not to have dessert as we were full. Antonio ate pork and cuyo (guinea pig) - it's a traditional restaurant.
Starting to-day's list at the end of the meal, four waitresses arrived bearing a cake + candle and sang Happy Birthday. Antonio's work again. Lovely. The cake was chocolate mousse in a mountain of soft cream which the three of us dug into with our spoons. Julio had already gone - long drive to-morrow. Change of plan too, no visit to Huacarpay Lakes. There's a general strike in Cusco which could involve road closure so that we couldn't get through on the return journey to our next lodge. We readily agreed to this.
I've had a great day and thoroughly enjoyed it. We saw so many brilliant birds, most of them new to us, too many to list here in a general Blog. I shall have to do a trip report when I get home.
Andean LapwingAugust 4
After a rotten night, I was awake for 3 hours, we dragged ourelves to breakfast where Pam ate next to nothing and I had fruit and a roll. Jetlag and altitude do not make for good sleep patterns.
Promptly at 6, we climbed out of a deserted Cusco, through the lovely, elegant square whose colonnades hide such places as McDonalds. No Golden Arches though, all in keeping. Past the Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman and a pool which had several Puna Ibis feeding along its shore.
Our first stop was short of a small bridge where we soon saw a lovely male Andean Hillstar, an endemic, and a Peruvian Sierra-Finch. A White-winged Cinclodes led us a merry dance before gaining good views.
Ochre-naped Ground-tyrantThe valleys were prosperous compared with the adobe mud homes in the numerous small villages we passed through. Herds of sheep, cows and a few horses and the occasional pigs, attended by someone in full Indian clothes, both along the roads and on seemingly impossibly steep mountainside. Piles of mud bricks drying in the sun with heaps of soil waiting - we never did see anyone using a mould. One village obviously had a skilled workman available, the homes were both plastered and had very attractive and skilful relief figures of animals, or birds, or people on the walls. I must try and take some photos on the way back....
We lunched in a small pull-off wooded gully beside a road bridge and a small stream. Whilst Julio prepared lunch, we sat and birded, seeing very little apart from an orange butterfly with black tiger-striped wings.
The Beast, Antonio, Julio and I + THE footstool
The last phone reception of the next week or so was in a town called Paucartambo. We parked in a fascinating market area and spent 20 minutes enjoying the scene whilst Julio phoned Gunnar, Antonio bought an umbrella (ominous) and I texted Bridge to say thanks.
The afternoon drive to Wayqecha where we spend the night, became a bit of a nightmare. Still the same road conditions allied with cloud forest thick fog, heavy dampness on the windscreen and roads made even worse by the regular wet conditions. Oncoming traffic on the mainly single track road suddenly appeared in the screen. Julio was totally unperturbed by it all, Pam and I decided to try and sleep - close our eyes anyway. A short stop brought a glimpse of Great Thrush - it looks like a giant Blackbird with all the yellow bits much more richly coloured. Five minutes later we stopped at a hut and the horn was hooted. Two jovial men pushing wheelbarrows appeared out of the mist. Luggage loaded into the barrows, we followed down a steepish track to our 2 bedroomed cabin for the night, shared with Julio and Antonio.
It's a Cloudforest Research Station with some accommodation for non-workers.
Wayquecha bedroomWe spent the next couple of hours birding from the balcony - only about 20 meters visibility, occasionally improving - and, trying to get warm. It was - still is - very cold indeed. Ant got us some coffee from the dining area which helped a bit. Our room is cold and damp feeling. I tried to read, write this Blog etc but the electricity didn't come on until 5.45 and it goes off again at 9. It's a perfectly adequate place and the cabins are nice. The cold and damp colours everything. Let's hope it's clearer in the morning when we leave - very early of course - for Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Dinner is at 7, I hope the dining room is heated !
Wayquecha battery charging facility.Thursday August 5
I chose not to breakfast - 72 steps down and then back up. Pam brought me a roll. A lovely clear morning. We birded the balcony for a while, seeing our first Crimson-backed Woodpecker here. Superb bird.
We then drove back up the road, sat and birded for a while before walking a couple of hundred yards down the road and were then driven to use the loo and collect our luggage and packed lunch from the lodge.
The rest of the day was spent driving the indescribably bad roads, to-day's even worse due to landslides and regular torrents gushing down the mountainside and across the track.Stopping every time we saw a flock, often walking a couple of hundred yards before Julio picked us up. A large flock of Scale-headed Parrots flew over as did a single Solitary Eagle and an adult and young Black-and-chestnut Eagle.
Scale-headed ParrotsAfter a lunch of chicken, rice and vegetables, sitting roadside, it was more of the same in increasing cloud as we descended. The afternoon's highlight was our first male Cock of the Rock, another ambition achieved. He did not disappoint, the orange is fluorescent. Then a beautiful Trogon and a Motmot just before arriving at Cock of the Rock Lodge.
Masked TrogonThe latter's lek has been washed away by a landslide but we're going for a look in the morning anyway.
Shortly before reaching the lodge, we crossed the river and stopped at a disused building. Antonio directed us to a nest underneah the eaves, asking us what bird it was sitting there. Looks like a duck, I said. Much hilarity when he told us it was a Lyre-tailed Nightjar female sitting on eggs.
The following morning, the light was better - and at least one egg had hatched. Chick can be seen at the front .
Our cabin at Cock of the Rock Lodge is great. Large and comfortable with a view of the grounds.. We're here for two nights so that's comforting. The big drawback is the lack of electricity, candles ready in our room. I am so dependent on good light. Should have brought many more batteries for our torches. Another Gunnar lack of information item.
Walking down to the dining room for a hot cuppa (it's very cold again), we were greeted by views of a garden area full of birds. The next hour was spent coming to terms with them, all the Hummers are new.
Candle-lit rooms, battery charging possible in the dining room from 6-8 every day. That's where we are now. It looks like spaghetti junction, the sockets are loose and Pam had to hold the extension lead for quite a while before a french woman put her battery chargers on top to hold the connection. We have American, French and UK people here to-night. Very noisy !
Dinner was good. Pumpkin Soup, pork chop, potato cake and tomatoes in a tasty sauce followed by poached pears in a tasty sauce of some sort.
Friday August 6
We couldn't get going this morning, although not very warm, bed was warmer than the cabin and our clothes. 6.40 at the dining room was 40 minutes later than Antonio expected us - but we hadn't missed anything. Two fried eggs for breakfast set us up well, a change from bread and jam. The food is very good here and the place is well run by manager Jose ( a real deadpan comic who gets on well with Ant) and his staff. We then watched the birds in the garden below with its numerous hummingbird feeders and fruit platform until 11 a.m.
Yellow-bellied EuphoniaOrange-eared Tanager
Blue-necked TanagerTyrian Metaltail
The Old Boy
Tufted Capuchin MonkeyBrown Agouti
Sanborn's SquirrelAt 11 we drove up the horrific road as far as a parador (viewpoint), completely obscured by cloud yesterday but to-day, was blue and sunny all day. As I said to Pam later, 'what's the difference between this road and a stream-bed?' . 'Nothing ',was the response.
After a lunch of avocado mush (dressing and veg mixed in to a round heap), chicken stir fry and a prettied up banana - all very good - we set off down the road, stopping to bird there and back. What is so astonishing is the range and quantity of vehicles that use the road. From lorries and buses to saloon cars. Breakdowns and falling off the road are both said to be frequent occurrences, we were lucky in experiencing neither.
We pick up new birds every time we go out. If the place to get out is hazardous - as it often is - Antonio uses my camera out of his window or outside. The only windows which open are the front ones, very frustrating at times but, the seats are extremely comfortable, like armchairs. Our windows are covered in a DIY tinted film too, making looking out of mine in particular look like a bad eye test. The Beast is a gas/diesel 4 litre Dodge.
Antonio photo'd three different sorts of Oropendola in an orange-flowered tree but doesn't seem to have extended the lens.........
Crested OropendolaStraight down to the dining room as two other groups have arrived and I wanted to book the electric sockets, generator on from 6-8 only. We eat by candlelight.
I used to like Americans..........., to-night's intrusive and stupid man put me right off.
I'd finished setting up the chargers when Julio fetched us to see an Andean Potoo perched and flying off the guides' bedroom side of the dining room. Unfortunately, the other groups caught on and beat us to it. We did have goodish views of it flying and landing on a dead tree, it's not usually found at this low an altitude. Must be the cold! We went back later and saw it through Ant's scope whilst Julio spotlit.
During a supper of Broccoli Soup, Spag Bol and Chocolate Pudding, smiley waiter Elvis (yes, really) called us to see a Kinkajou hanging upside down from a hummingbird feeder. Great. Because Antonio is so affable and helpful, locals seem to go out of their way to help us.
Not as cold to-night. The chargers were green apart from Pam's camcorder, so I packed them all away and am writing this in the cabin, on battery, by candle-light. We leave here at 10ish in the morning, heading for Amazona Lodge for the night.
Saturday August 7
On time this morning, at the entry gate by 6. We didn't see many birds but had a very interesting time watching a large lorry draw up and decamp seven Bolivian students and their provisions, tents etc. They will be joined by other nationalities, spending 3 months looking for birds nests. It was the at least eighteen dozen eggs which intrigued Pam the most.
Ham omelette for breakfast this morning, with short sorties to see and to photograph thrushes.
Slaty Thrush (aberrent white feathers)We've enjoyed this place - apart from the lack of electric light.
Birding our way down to the Madre de Dios river was most enjoyable - especially the Umbrella Bird which Pam spied through the front screen. Everyone else was looking down at the river, thank goodness she's got vertigo. Another wish list bird ticked off - they're not seen every trip.
As soon as we hit the lowlands, birds increased in number and variety, we saw over 90 species to-day, many of them familiar such as Smooth-billed Ani and all the pesky myiarchus flycatchers which are difficult to identify.
Apart from a longish stop at a frontier type hamlet so that Ant could contact Canada and we could stock up on batteries and antihistamine tablets (me - mosquito bites), it was straight to the boats used for getting to Amazona Lodge. A few shacks, parked cars, toddlers and foraging chickens. Through a gap and across big pebbles and mud, about a dozen large canoes with canopies.
Julio and The Beast were left on shore until our return.
The boat had to be poled out to midstream, the water was very shallow, the appearance of the river most unexpected. Wide stony shores with a channel in the centre containing many rapids. Engine started, we gunned into the centre and moved rapidly downstream. The rapids had to be taken even faster it seems !
Bluish-fronted Jacamar
The owner greeted us on the extensive balcony and poured out the iced lemonade. Everywhere was teeming with birds; so many different hummingbirds at the feeders, Oropendolas feeding on the fruit trees, Spotted Chachalacas trying to get their share. We're the only people here to-night and got Room 1 which is close to the communal shower block - down some open concrete steps and along a walkway. Pam and I immediately went for a much wanted shower and hairwash plus undies laundry. I think Antonio was planning a walk...........
The next couple of hours were spent birding the garden - from the balcony - and photographing as many as possible.
Speckled ChachalacaMasked Crimson Tanager
Chestnut-fronted MacawBlack-fronted Nunbird
Koepcke's Hermit (endemic)
How do you pronounce that name? I called it cupcakes...
Dark soon after 5.30, the Screech Owls started calling but never appeared.
Dinner at 7, plus complementary Pisco Sour, bird list - much hilarity, Pam trying to read my writing, much of it written in the exceedingly bumpy vehicle.
I can still hear that frustrating Owl....
Morning walk at 6, breakfast at 7, boat at 8 for a 7 hour trip downstream to Manu Camping Lodge.
Sunday August 8
Having to negotiate handrail-less steps and a concrete pathway to go to the loo in the night was not enjoyable. At least, being the only guests, we only had Antonio to avoid.
Before breakfast, we walked the Jeep Trail as far as a roosting Potoo site, Ant finding many birds by call along the way, birds included the sighting of an Undulated Tinamou. Tinamous are always at the top of the 'heard only' list in trip reports.
Eggs for breakfast, much to Pams delight, then the walk to the riverbank, through the forest and across plank bridges for to-day's boat.
Where do I begin?
Well........the whole journey took over eight hours, sitting side by side in a 12 metre long, canopied canoe. Not the broad river I'd foolishly imagined, at times very narrow with stony shores, islands and frequent rough water/rapids which required careful negotiation. Add to that, masses of fallen trees clogged with debris, oxbows and side channels. Rather concerning for the first hour or so but the boatman and his assistant were very good. Allied with hawk-eye Antonio constantly finding good birds and the boatman's willingness to reverse, pole the shallows etc, the journey was enjoyable. Until bottoms became numb (Pam's) and legs a bit cramped. A new bird always sorted that though. We also had Otters and a Spectacled Caiman en route. The river was mostly very shallow but we only hit the bottom twice.
Spectacled CaimanThe three men got off at 'the last town' to buy supplies. Looked like a load of shanties to us, on top of an eroded bank which was being protected by plastic sacks full of soil. Another reason we stayed on board....the sacks had to be climbed over and muddy steps negotiated. We were there 10 minutes, enough time to gain another mosquito bite. They seem to like eating the two different repellants I've used.
At last.... we arrived at Manu Camping Lodge at 5.15, more planks and mud to survive, greeted by a pleasant young woman bearing fruit juice.
Our room is across a bridge, along a stony track, then a few steep steps.
Our insect ridden cabin Perfectly adequate but 4 nights seems rather too long with electricity from 6-9 only and hot water for a couple of hours a night. It's a great birding place for those who can walk uphill all day, not for a ' less able walkers' birding tour. Gunnar has a lot to answer to. Antonio thinks so too. Especially the length of stay. All walks are uphill.
A great day birdwise, a highlight being about 50 Sand-coloured Nighthawks in total, using the sand islands to sleep, many parrot family and raptors too.
Sand-coloured NighthawkThe only other group here is Spanish, led by a Canadian, who made a noisy, sweaty and dirty looking entrance to dinner. Don't know how long they've been here nor when they're leaving. Our plans are a 6.30 walk to the Canopy Tower, back here for a 9 o'clock breakfast.
Monday August 9
The walk to the Canopy Tower was longer and more arduous than we'd been led to believe. I think A's 20 minutes is more like forty. Shortly after leaving the cabin and getting to the top of the hill, three Pale Winged Trumpeters appeared. One started displaying and calling loudly, pecked my shoe and then attacked my leg with beak and feet. That was a surprise! I tried to beat it off with my camera, Antonio managed to do so with the stool he was carrying. Antonio had not known one to do so before but, apparently it's a regular occurrence. No harm done, little b......
The tower was a very solid structure and extremely tall - over 100 steps.
We managed half before Pam succumbed to her vertigo. We sat on a platform half way up and saw some good birds.
Curl-crested AracariGolden-collared Toucanet
Breakfast at 10 when we got back hot, sweaty and insect bitten - despite repellent.
After breakfasting on very runny porridge and a pancake, we retired to our cabin, me to sleep, Pam to read, it was good to stop. The antihistamine pills are making me very dozy, I keep dropping off.
After lunch, Antonio carried chairs into the shade of some trees at the back of the dining room. There we sat for an hour, seeing some very good birds, called in by Ant.
Broad-billed MotmotTime for another boat trip, lovely once we've negotiated what passes for stairs and a few ricketty planks over the mud.
Me walking the plank to the canoe.
The boy are good about helping us. We didn't get back until dusk, the setting sun over the river was lovely. Antonio found a Ladder-tailed Nightjar amongst many other goodies, he's such a good birder and so good natured.
Ladder-tailed Nightjar
The Spanish group left at 5 this morning, it's the end of their trip.We have two more nights here after this one - too long really. It's a 5 o'clock start for a boat ride and then a walk to the Macaw Lick to-morrow. Some muttering about a boat ride, then a walk and then a catamaran trip round a lake in the afternoon. I'm tired already....!
Tuesday August 10
I've previously described the nature of the Madre de Dios River......shallow, debris strewn with frequent areas of white water.
Imagine travelling downstream in pitch darkness at 5 a.m., the boatman's 'boy' sat up front with an ordinary torch. That's how to-day began. Pam was shaking with fear, the bow wave was spraying us with water, we held a blue plastic sheet under our chins to avoid the worst. Antonio was good enough to shine his torch at the bank, exposing two pairs of red eyes and announcing 'Spectacled Caiman'. Tactful......
Dawn eventually broke as we arrived at the landing place for the macaw clay lick at Blanquillo, two boats already tied up under a steep and very slippery, wet, 15 feet high clay bank - which had a few rough steps hewn into the slope. We saw some much younger people go up on all fours........our sticks helped tremendously.
That little hurdle safely negotiated, it was an easy 30 minute flat walk through trees to the clay lick.
What a surprise. A very long, well constructed hide on stilts with decent boardwalk and steps. The chairs were comfortable and there was plenty of room for the 20 or so people there.
In front of us, at least 50 yards away, across a narrow stream ( a remnant oxbow) was a red clay cliff topped with bush and trees, heaving with about 500 parrots, mostly Blue-headed a few Orange-cheeked and rather more Mealy.
The noise was incredible, especially when they all took off in a fright, which happened frequently. Waves appeared, disappeared, in an ear-numbing cacophany before returning to chew again. The thumb sized lumps of clay chewed off are thought to contain minerals which help their bodies to cope with the toxins in their diet.
Blue-headed and Orange-cheeked Parrots
During the three hours we spent enjoying the tremendous spectacle, we had breakfast - brought along by the Lodge people - and a few Red and Green Macaws started to trickle in, stationing themselves at the very top of the trees until there were about 150.
Spectacular birds, arriving in twos and formation flying in unison.
Red and Green Macaws
The smaller parrots had all gone by 9.30 but it was half an hour before the macaws felt safe enough to drop down to the lick. What an experience, a once in a lifetime must.
Back to the Lodge for lunch and a precious hour to ourselves before setting off in the boat once more. To an oxbow lake way downstream. Another steep and rough hoick out of the boat and to the top of the mud bank.......another 20 minute walk to the lake and its catamarans.The latter is a wooden platform across two canoes holding a dozen chairs. No rails.....loose chairs. We watched one set off, a paddler at the back of each canoe, before finding that a booking error had been made and the remaining boat was awaiting another group. Bother.
We sat on the covered area birding the part we could see, arranging to return in the morning. Better in some ways but the approach is onerous. The roof of the boathouse held many bats - species unknown.
We returned to the Lodge as the sun was setting, lovely to look at but it meant a torchless landing and disembarkation at the Lodge.
After a few days at this place, with its hordes of biting insects, we've decided that we will not do rough any more. I've had a Cockroach run across my bed, an insect in my left ear and Pam's attempt to kill a Cicada with a flipflop made it scream loudly. It succumbed to being a two flipflop sandwich. This is one rough too far. We can't use our mossie nets as they're covered in insects.
Our cabin was full of flying ants this morning, disturbed by our insect repellent, Pam's mosquito net was full of them and the floor had to be swept. Only one coil left too and, another night after this one. The birds are fantastic, Antonio is an incredible guide and the people at the Lodge are lovely. We're looking forward to leaving.
Wednesday August 11
Two not very happy bunnies walking to breakfast at 6 after a very disturbed night - but the boat ride to the lake soon cheered us up. We spent a couple of hours slowly and smoothly paddling around the oxbow lake verges, sitting in our folding chairs. Our boatmen did the paddling, Richard, the driver is a good birder too. He found the perched Pauraque (Americas nightjar) for us.
Best sightings were the Grey-necked Woodrail and the Chestnut Crake, the latter only seen twice before by Antonio.
Grey-necked Woodrail
The prehistoric looking Hoatzin has hooks on the tips of its wings which help it move through the trees. Goony birds.
Hoatzin
Flowering trees, wasps nests hanging like giant bells high above, and a prospecting King Vulture were all enjoyable parts of the ride.
The silent movement of the raft enabled a close approach to birds otherwise easily spooked. The selection of commoner water birds was very good.
Neotropic Cormorants
Striated Heron
Limpkin
Wattled Jacana
We'd only had one sighting of Scarlet Macaws before these beauties made a fast fly-through.
As we disembarked, a sharp eyed boatman spotted this Black Caiman lurking under the lakeside vegetation.
Black Caiman
Down the steep bank to the boat for the last time....the boat shown is one of the larger canoes with upright seating.
The river has been very hazy the last two mornings. Antonio says it's caused by the burning of the forest in Bolivia, I assume that's based on fact. Bolivia is the only country which has more bird species than Peru.
We always have a bag of 'snacks' for the morning, which we kept for the return journey. Always two pieces of fruit, often a banana and a mandarin, a packet of biscuits, a few sweets, a drink and something chocolate. Most welcome.
An hour's rest after lunch before walking the Tapir Lick trail part way to look for flocks. We didn't find any, just a handful of birds in total but a few were new. On the return journey, the aggressive Trumpeters came running and calling. Antonio sent us on ahead and ended up being attacked himself!. He had to ward them off with the stools he was carrying for us. A German group of general travellers arrived this afternoon, they passed us and had to be warned about the attacking birds. I knew that they were good guard dogs.........
A pretty quiet day to-day as we're leaving early in the morning for another long boat journey to Shintuya where Julio will meet us and drive us to to-morrow night's Lodge.
Thursday August 12
What a day! We left Manu Camping Lodge at 6.45, happy to be on our way, we spent far too long here in difficult conditions.
I shall miss the evocative dawn chorus of the Red Howler Monkeys though - Borneo was the last experience of this.
Last time down the planks, Anthony always first so that he could help - he always carried my camera on board.
As soon as we passed the confluence with the Manu river, the Madre de Dios became very shallow. Increasing rapids brought increased activity from boatman Ramera. Richard the driver didn't seem to know the best line to take, necessitating Romero to go to the front and pole like mad or jump into the water and push. When he did the latter, Antonio used the pole. On two occasions, both Richard and Romero were in the water whilst Antonio poled.
Boca Manu Villagers at work. I still don't really understand why they're cutting the banks away to fill unsightly plastic sacks.I suppose that the sacks are better able to withstand the river torrents in the rainy season.
Cocoi Herons are bigger than our Grey and even more easily spooked.
Much better views of Sand-coloured Nighthawks to-day.
And... a flowering tree which held five Spix's Guans.
We got to Shintuya at 2.00 p.m., no Julio - and he wasn't responding to the CB either. We all ended up walking, hot and sweaty, on an unmade track, past hovels, half a mile to the 'Lodge'. A rutted track off the road ending in a large thatched hut on stilts. Five bedrooms down one side, a kitchen, 2 showers and two loos in the centre. A bring your own food, water and candles job ! We had none of these.
Photo taken the next morning after The Beast and Julio had arrived.
It's now 5.20, still no Julio and a distrait Antonio has gone off to the hamlet to see if he can buy some biscuits and drink.
He hasn't a bed for the night either.
Gunnar - the company owner is away somewhere......
Victor in the office talked to Julio at 11 this morning but not since - no response.
What happens next? At least we have a bed for the night - and that's all our rooms contain, two beds. Oh, I forgot the lump of wood on which to stand the non existent candle.
Our bedroomAt 5.30, Julio turned up having driven here fron Cusco, a long way on decent roads. Gunnar had called him back there to pick up a tourist from the airport and take him out for the day. What care and consideration - for Julio as well as us. He went in search of Antonio and then returned to make us a cup of coffee and cake. Some dinner ! The two of them then rigged up a generator and hung a lamp in the dining area - very nice for the other group which appears to be two Catalan families.We decided upon breakfast on he road to-morrow. The sooner we get to Cock of the Rock Lodge the better. Many birds and cooler - we'll probably be complaining of the cold to-morrow night.
Julio drove for 11 hours from Cusco to Shintuya, only 350 Ks but the road is indescribably bad. And then he had to sleep in the car last night, no room booked for him.
Friday August 13
We both slept well under our mossie nets, we heard our first rain in the night - and the Catalans at 4.30. Away soon after 6.30 to travel a road even rougher than any before. We crossed at least 6 rivers, two of them 80 metres wide, where we had to pick our way along the stony bed and ford the streams. And....it rained, bucketed down, my door leaked torrents.
Thank goodness it wasn't whilst we were on the boat.
We were fed a banana and six choc chip cookies at 8.30 and then actual breakfast at 10.30 in Pilcopata. Weird, we just pulled in to a hotel (!!) and Julio used their kitchen to cook us a delicious ham, cheese and tomato omelette.
The breakfast Hotel
He then disappeared to change a tyre, it was 11.30 before we left. Odd town, a mixture of modern dress, trucks and trail bikes mingled with traditional Indian dress, including bowler hats, and women pulling handcarts of fruit and vegetables.
Still a lot of cloud about but the rain stopped - still a lack of birds along the road verges though. The highlight was a pair of Military Macaws soon after leaving Pilcopata.
We arrived at Cock of the Rock Lodge at 2.00 to bird at the roadside platform whilst Julio cooked a lunch of Spaghetti Bolognese and tinned peaches. He's such a good cook. I was still full after breakfast but managed to eat it. Jose, the manager, had said he'd be on leave but he's still here, as jovial as ever, wearing wellies and footie shorts because he'd been hosing down. Don't know what.
Gilberto, who lacks front teeth, took our bags down to cabin 3 and it was like coming home. Clean, spacious with room to put things.
Our Cock of the Rock Lodge Cabin
After a general sorting of belongings, we spent the rest of the afternoon birding and photographing from the dining room, whilst Julio fixed the car axle.
male Silver-beaked Tanager
Speckled Hummingbird - tongue out !
White-bellied Woodstar
Grey-fronted Dove
The usual bird list for the day, another three course meal, battery charging and the cabin for a quiet time before bed.
Saturday August 14
Premiership kick-off day.
I don't remember much of to-day's journey, I slept most of the way. Hindsight tells me that it was the beginning of my illness.
Pam photographed this group of Christians attending a river baptism.
I do remember the return through the village with the decorated houses - which Antonio photographed for me.
We also saw adobe bricks being made from start to finish.
Soil digging and grass for mixing on the right. Wooden former used for shaping bricks before laying out to dry on the left.
Many Peruvian homes have pottery cows on the roof, for good luck. I thought they looked more like Chinese dogs....
The detour to Huacarpay Lakes (missed before we left Cusco due to a projected general strike), was notable for my wanted endemic, Bearded Mountaineer. Another birding group had got it cornered. Very convenient. We also added several water birds to the list.
Back to the same Hotel in Cusco - but different. In the few days since we left, reception and dining had moved downstairs and the entrance changed - for the better.
I just sat... Pam went down to tell Anthony that we were not going out to eat and it was decided to call the doctor. He arrived + nurse in twenty minutes, helping me into bed fully dressed. I was very cold and shivering but no way was I going to undress with guide, driver doc etc in the small room. I didn't want to spend the night in a clinic in case I missed my flight so he returned with an oxygen bottle, which helped a lot and, made three more visits during the night. He pronounced altitude sickness but I had a temperature and no headache at all.
By now my stomach soreness, present all day, had increased as had the loo visits.
Sunday August 15
Last doctor visit for payment etc at 6. 20 a.m. before we departed for the airport and said our goodbyes to Antonio and Julio. Antonio was flying to Puerto Maldonado to see his family five minutes after us.
As expected, my small oxygen bottle was confiscated by customs. I slept away the hour's flight to Lima.
Alejandro, birding guide, and the driver met us at the airport and drove us out of Lima to the de Lachay reserve area.
We were offered a lunch of cheese, salami, biscuits (with bran) and fresh strawberries mid afternoon, none of which I could eat - and Pam doesn't eat fresh fruit abroad. All their trouble gone to waste - and we know that they had been told of my illness.
I remember seeing some good birds, that it was dark and cold very early and..... I've never seen such extensive and numerous shanty towns anywhere.
In the desert too.
The Lima traffic meant that we didn't get to our hotel until 8.20 p.m, to be told that we'd be picked up at 4.30 in the morning. Seeing Pam's face, they changed it to 5.00.
A final bag sort out ready for to-morrow's flight before a short night.
Monday August 16
The doorman, fast asleep on the sofa, was astonished to see us up and ready to leave. Why? he said.
We were then driven to Puna grasslands, at the highest altitude yet, 4,800 metres above sea level. (approx 16,000 feet) Not the best plan for someone with diarrhoea and altitude sickness. I don't think they understood at all, producing chicken and vegetable wraps bought from a roadside stall , for breakfast.
I sat in the car, Alejandro found birds and told Pam. She relayed the whereabouts to me - if she'd understood his English - and I saw most of them. The big miss was Diademed Sandpiper-plover, the jewel in the crown. Alessandro was off down the mountainside with his camera, came back and told Pam, she didn't understand the significance, didn't tell me (I was on oxygen by now) and we drove off.
We did see Cactus Cinclodes in the habitat shown below.
And my bird list mentions:
Collared Warbling-finch, Pied-crested Tit-tyrant, Least and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Long-tailed Mockingbird, Cinereous, Ochre-naped and White-fronted Ground-tyrants, Crested Duck and Giant Coot.
Very quietly, a group of Alpacas, which included a few Llamas, crept up on us. And just as quietly melted away.
This photo of Pam's shows the inhospitable terrain. The water is frozen.
Another long drive back to Lima, half an hour spent sweltering in the van whilst they had it cleaned roadside (!!) by a woman wielding a hose fed from the river below.
We had to pick up our boarding passes from Gunnar at the office in Milaflores, the Lima traffic had to be endured again.
By now I was very distressed by my inability to control body functions. Pam and Gunnar went to a pharmacy and got some antibiotics and incontinence pants.
I changed at the airport and had to do some laundry in the middle of our comfortable flight home. Thank goodness we flew Business Class.
Rai and Barbara picked us up at Norwich airport and we were home by 5.30 p.m. on August 17th.
Trip Total: Over 480, of which more than half were lifers. Final numbers not yet calculated due to discrepancies between lists and book names and vice versa.
PS
Doctor's visit on the 18th, different antibiotics. Followed by another change of antibiotics a day later - Campylobacter detected in the sample.
Fantastic trip. Great birds, a very good guide, arduous, yet so satisfying.
